mardi 29 mai 2012

The beauty of Liguria. And the food.

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Recently I had the opportunity to again go to the Cinque Terre in Liguria, Italy. I had been here several years ago and, like probably most people who visit, fell in love with it the first time.

The Cinque Terre - also known as the Italian Riviera, consists of five ("Cinque" in Italian) brightly colored fishing villages on the rocky Ligurian coast. The villages in North-to-South order are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Photographically gorgeous, it was a joy to visit this area again, despite the huge number of tourists that have already descended upon these sleepy villages. The villages are not accessible by cars in most cases, so are connected by a train service, typically running hourly. Due to time available to us, and overcrowding, we did not get to one of the most beautiful villages Vernazza.

This region suffered devastating flooding October 25, 2011, and Monterosso al Mare and Vernazza were especially hard-hit. Amazingly, only nine people are confirmed as losing their lives in this flood. We were told that Vernazza was still visibly damaged, and when we visited Monterosso al Mare, many shops were still closed. However, in typical Ligurian style, residents of Monterosso al Mare were selling their wares in front of boarded up shops, children were selling lemons, lemonade, and paper cups of potato chips and other small items - as a community trying to drive cash back into the village to restore it back to its former simply beauty.

One of the major draws of this region apart from the villages themselves are the fantastic coastal and inland hiking trails, providing hikers and outdoor enthusiasts the opportunity to enjoy the region fully. The coastal trails were another casualty of these torrential rains and floods, destroying the coastal routes between Monterosso al Mare and Venazza, and Vernazza and Corniglia and Corniglia to Manarola. Thus the trains were even more crowded than usual. Sardine-can-packed would be an appropriate description, and it's only May...

Riomaggiore was our first port of call, having taken the train down to the "last" town. Riomaggiore is built high above the ocean with a staircase access to the port. There is a castle at the top of the mountain on one side of the town.


The trail from Riomaggiore to Manarola is easy to walk - it is wide and even for the most part, and takes about 45 minutes. Manarola is a gorgeous little town, and a good stop for lunch, assuming you are able to find a table. Be prepared to wait.

The image below provides an idea of the ingenuity of the architects of this village, and typical of this region. Photos I have seen of this region show enormous waves crashing against that cliff face, sending spray across these little houses. Very dramatic.






Corniglia was to me a bit of a mystery. Built high above the ocean on a cliff face, and requiring a climb of 368 stairs from the train station, one has to question if it's economy was ever built on fishing. However, it is as beautiful as the other towns, although smaller, and worth a visit for its charming alleys and tiny squares with restaurants.



Monterosso al Mare is the village that has stuck in my mind since my last visit for two reasons. The impressive "Monterosso Giant", which is holding up a platform while eternally looking over the ocean :



The second reason I remembered Monterosso al Mare is the food. I ate there one day in 2003 at a small place called "Ciak" and had their ravioli stuffed with sea bass in a shrimp sauce. Having had the same meal again this last time, I can understand why I remembered it as one of the best meals I have ever eaten. Delicious.

Window to culinary heaven : Ciak's kitchen





Your comments are welcome - have you been to the Cinque Terre? What were your experiences?

lundi 19 mars 2012

Geneva at an ungodly hour...

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Again got myself out before 5 am for another round of photos, this time in Geneva. We arrived well before any sign of light in the International City, and proceeded to make a tour of the waterfront. We did almost the entire shoreline of Geneva on this cloudy morning with the strong threat of rain. Was it worth it? Definitely. And the Starbuck's breakfast wasn't bad either...





vendredi 16 mars 2012

Close enough to be eaten by a tiger...

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Perhaps an overly dramatic title, but I couldn't resist...

Recently I picked up a new toy, a Nikon V1 camera. Not to get too technical here, but this camera is a wonder - I can use any of my Nikon lenses and it multiplies their magnification factor by 2.7x. So, for those of you interested, it makes my 300mm lens effectively an 810mm, which means I can get reeeeeaaallly close to my subject matter, while avoiding being a snack for carnivorous cats. Generally a good idea...

This for me was a test of this functionality. I am blown away. I have a new favorite toy, and I think it will be a favorite for a LONG time...!



Pre-dawn Montreux Switzerland and Post-dawn Ouchy (Lausanne), Switzerland

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Recently I had to get up and out at 5 am to capture the morning light from one of my favorite places in Switzerland - Montreux. Many years ago, in 1994 I did a tour of Europe with a girlfriend - 1 month, 5 countries. Time was pressing, so we could only afford to spend one night in Switzerland, in Montreux. It always remained in my heart as my favorite place I had visited in my entire tour. In 2001 I found myself living in Switzerland, in Montreux. It was then and is today, still one of my favorite places on earth.








jeudi 8 mars 2012

Natural Ice Sculptures, Paquis, Geneva and Versoix

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Recently in Switzerland we experienced a cold snap such that we have not seen in many years...certainly not in my experience here. We had high winds and very low temperatures (by Swiss standards). The combination of these high winds with a lake as large as Lac Leman (Lake Geneva) was perhaps inevitable - large waves explosively impacting with the rocky shore...the photos below tell the story better than I could...


Apparently, it is recommended we do not swim or jump into the water...


Hope they had insurance...



Three cars were entombed in the ice at this location in Versoix : One of them was from France and the other Portugal...what do you do if this happens when you are in another country??

Natural art :

No comment needed:


mardi 13 décembre 2011

Ethereal Vevey

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This photo was taken on a stormy morning in Vevey. To the right of Place de Marché is a set of three statues of seahorses that are near or in the lake. They can be magic in the right light and conditions. I was lucky on this morning.

I used a 10-stop Neutral Density filter to allow me to take a time exposure of 30 seconds, which gives the water that milky ethereal feeling. Fortunately, the sun chose that moment to envelope the statue in light. Sometimes the light just works.



lundi 28 novembre 2011

A sleeping castle with an interesting historical link and a safely moored ship

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I had the opportunity to find some time free last week, which inevitably meant I got out with my gear to capture more images of the beauty around this region.

The first image is one I have been planning for some time - to capture the sun as it rises over the Aubonne castle. The castle was built in 1680 for Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, an early visionary of the opportunity in Indian Trade. Interesting historical tidbit (Thanks to Wikipedia), M. Tavernier was the individual who discovered and sold the 118 carat Hope Diamond (as it was known when it was re-discovered after a theft in London) to Louis XIV. This was taken from a secret vantage point I identified near the Arboretum...





The second image was taken on a sunny morning of the CGN ship, "Lausanne". This ship, part of the fleet of the Compagnie Générale de Navigation sur le lac Léman (CGN) who operates the steam ships on Lac Leman (Lake Geneva) is one of the modern ships of their fleet, commissioned in 1991. Here, we find it safely moored at its home in Ouchy, a district of Lausanne in the Canton of Vaud. Taken with an ultra-wide 10mm lens to emphasize the texture and color of the mooring rope and chain.





Thanks for reading! I have a bunch of new interesting photos from an outing to La Salève, a mountainous outcrop overlooking Geneva, Les Rochers-de-Naye overlooking Lake Geneva and others, but I need some time to select the best ones. They should be up soon!

Wade